Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Goodbye Sengerema

I have just arrived in Dar Es Salaam. I left Sengerema and the Malekela family yesterday and not sure if I am feeling ready to go home. Both the family and I were truly sad to part ways but they tell me that I am warmly welcome (and all my friends too) again. The 2 months in Sengerema have been an incredible learning and life experience. I am so greatful for my experience and the things I have learned, only a small bit that I have mentioned on this blog. I head home in about a week and would be happy to catch up with family and freinds soon.

Here are some pictures from Sengerema since I am to tired to write anything interesting.



Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Water

Nearly everyone I ask here in Sengerema names the biggest problem they face on a day-to-day basis is access to water. Strangely enough, Sengerema has the largest coastal boarder of all regions in TZ, Kenya, or Uganda with Lake Victoria (the 2nd largest lake in the world and largest in Africa). Yet there is still a shortage of water. I do not fully understand why, but people tell me that the mechanic pumps are old and outdated, the lake is heavily polluted, and . Furthermore in a country where most power is supplied by hydroelectricity, shortage of water means no power (for those who are lucky enough to be connected to a grid).

The family I am staying with luckily has a water tap in their housing area. They told me that 3 years ago there was a massive water shortage and drought, all they told me was that it was "very very bad". This forced them to purchase a water resiovoir to harvest rainwater and to store water in during dry season as well as a new tap. Now in August nearing the end of dry season the resevoir is close to empty.

The Malekela family shares this tap with about 6 or 7 other families. They pay per litre of water harvested and have access to water about 3 times a week. When water is availible there are always large gatherings at the house as young girls and mothers (always and only females) fill their water pails to bring back home.

Keep in mind, here in Sengerema town (the largest village) there is the best and most provision of water. While travelling to other villages such as Nyehunge, water is even more scarce and people often have to bring it from longer distances that are less safe to consume. In Nyehunge very few people have taps which means there are many more than just 7 families sharing one.

Because the water system is much different than in Canada, I am very concious of how much water I am using. My showers are from a bucket so I know just how much water I have remaining (so I cannot stand under the shower for another 5 minutes and enjoy the warm (or cold) water). All drinking water must be boiled in an iron pot over a charcoal/wood stove; and all warm water must also be heated over an open fire. There are no flush toilets and no tap to wash your hands.

Over the past few days I have tried to measure the amount of water I used each day. My averages (ommitting washing clohtes) per day is:

Drinking: 3.5L
Cooking: about 8L
Brushing Teeth: 600mL
Bathing: 9.5L
Washing Hands: 2.5L
'Flushing' Toilet: 750mL
TOTAL = about 25L per day

Comparing this to the average Canadian water consumption per day (estimated at 343L per day in 1998) I use less than 8% of the average Canadian here in TZ. I also realized that my home in Canada has about 5 or 6 taps and 2 shower heads all that provide purified water ready for drinking. The average toilet flushes 3.5L each time using purified water and an average shower can be well over 50L. In TZ, the toilets are simply a hole in the ground and have no sophistacated or sanitary sewar systems. Some homes even have no toilet.

Something to think about.

Monday, August 3, 2009

Update from Sengerema

Sorry for not making a real post in some time, internet and power can be scarce here in Sengerema and I have been moving around quite a bit.

I was able to go on a safari to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater last week for a few days. I dont really know what to say but it was better than I could have imagined and never knew so many diverse animals could live in one area. Some memerable moments: watching the wildebeast migration, seeing the most beautiful starry sky and the milky way while camping in the serengeti, waking up in my tent to the noise of an elephant and several zebras walking past, winning a $50,000,000,000 (yes billlion, in Zimbabwe dollars = worthless) from a big game hunter over dinner, watching a leopard drag an antelope up an acacia tree with its mouth, and seeing the view into the crater. See pictures below (if the internet cooperates...).

I am again staying with the Malekala family. Originally I thought there had been 11 people at the home. I now realize this number fluctuates from about 11-18 with all the visitors, friends, and family moving in and out. There are always lots of children running around to keep me busy and entertained.

I was also sick last week with the flu and stomach problems. Ironically, I was sick, not from the food in the village, but from the safari. That wasn't a lot of fun and I got sent to the doctor. The doctor visit and medication cost me about $2, less than the taxi to get there.

At SISA (sengerema informal sector association) and with Joseph Shigulu, its director, I have been able to work alongside some government extension officers and see their projects in the various villages in Sengerema district, since SISA works in cooperation with the district government. This means I accompany people from various departments (fisheries, agriculture, livestock, natural resources, etc.) on their visits with small scale irrigation as well as illegal fishing patrol and others, which is always excting and a great learning experience to interect with both government officials and the farmers themselves. Im sure to write more on these details and things I've seen in the future.

I have also had the chance to visit several schools and talk with older students about the environment and issues of poverty. I ask them questions like 'what is the environment', 'what is its significance', and what specific environmental problems affect them day to day. It is an amazing experience to interact with them and learn from them, hearing their stories, perspectives, and understanding. They are also keen on hearing from me and asking me questions on my perceptions and what I am learning about Tanzanian life and their environmental issues. They intrigued to realize how their water shortages, deforestation, sanitation issues, food supply, and farming practices are all deeply related and how they too are a part of the environment. These are all issues they must deal with each day. (One secondary school of 900 students (most living on the grounds) has a single water tap!). I think it is a great experience for me to learn from them and for them to get another perspective. They always want to hear more and talk more so I am working at arranging youth-group meetings for the weekends.

Its hard to believe I have less than a month left in Tanzania, and even less in Sengerema. In some sense I feel I have just arrived while I also feel I have met so many people and been to so many places and have learned too much to write. I am looking forward to returning home and eating something other than ugali, but I know I will deeply miss interacting and living with the people here.