Nearly every time I drive south down the
kibwezi-kitui road from my village of Kisayani to the town of Kibwezi, I get
stopped by the traffic police. It is usually the same two men, dressed in their
blue uniforms and black leather shoes, with a ticket-book in hand and usually
with a stern look on their faces. They are putting on an act, looking for a
bribe.
Since there are no cars in Kisayani I take
bodabodas (motor-bike taxis) sometimes tripling even quadrupling up with others
(sometimes goats too) to share the cost. Usually these drivers don’t have
licenses, their bikes may be missing a light or two or aren’t registered and
carry too many people. As a result the bodaboda is pulled over. But rather than
ticketing the drivers slyly shakes hands with the driver who feeds them a bribe—usually
50bob (~$0.60). They look the other way and let us move on and I get dropped
off.
This always boils my blood, and I usually have
to restrain myself from saying something stupid and getting myself in trouble.
It makes me furious that these policemen tasked with keeping and upholding the
law are the very ones making a spectacle of it, sometimes even laughing when I
ask them from the back of the motorbike “unafanya nini?” (What do you think
you’re doing?). To me, they are stealing from the local people most of them
what we could consider ‘poor’ and who don’t make a lot (especially now with the
fuel costs so high) and eroding the foundation of law in the country. It is
unjust.
"confusion" -- probably not a registered vehicle |
While I don’t want to draw a negative picture
of Kenya, I still feel the need to tell the truth and share my impressions. I
see these injustices everywhere, in almost every level of government and
society.
I have seen it on the most basic community
level. The community project I am looking at—with ‘Christian’ in it’s name—is
showing signs of inequality, corruption and mismanagement. Even the neighboring
water project is facing a court case over broken relationships between the
community and the project managers. Furthermore, the local District Water Officer
is on a sort of ‘leave’ due to quieted accusations of stealing.
The corruption in the Kenyan government travels
up the chain to even the highest positions of government. One of the most
significant changes to the water project that has come in the past ten years
has been the creation of the new Water Act. Amongst a whole heap of changes
that went along with an overhaul of the entire water sector was the formulation
of Water Service Boards, which are tasked with the responsibility to provide or
allocate the provision of water to the people of Kenya.
In fact I just got back from a trip to Kitui
where I met with some high level officials in the regional office for the Water
Service Board in charge of the area I am in. While they were helpful and open
to me, the leading officials in those offices are making headlines for embezzlement
of funds exceeding 100 million KSH (more than $1 million) intended to support
and construct water projects to serve the poor.
Also gripping the front pages of papers of the
local papers are accusations against the Minister of Water herself for
corruption.
But it is not only corruption. I see ‘injustices’
in many other places too. The area of Kibwezi has been undergone massive
resettlement displacing many people. The very place I am living, the university
farm and research station is 16,000 acre plot of land acquired from local people. Just down
the road there is another 25,000 acre farm of prime agricultural land usual to
grow the cash crop sisal for export. This is all in an area that has been
labeled ‘in crisis’ by the UN due to drought and famine and is a recipient of
food relief since it is not food-secure.
Two good friends. |
I often also feel a need to blame someone
for this. Nearly every story I hear, it is someone (or something) else at
fault: the corrupt civil servants, the local project management, the NGOs who
seem to have abandoned this project, the massive restructuring of the water
ministry that leaves to many grey areas, the local users abusing and misusing
the water, the effects of climate change and those of us who unfairly
contribute to it, or just the corruption in general which permeates all levels
of society. In some sense, none alone are to blame and in another they [we] all are. I am learning a lot about the complexities of poverty, the importance of good leadership and relationships and standing up for what is just.
In the end I have to weed through all of these stories and find a sort of narrative, the story of this project and this community which can answer the research question of what has changed and how is the community adapting. I could have done my research with a survey, passed out 100 copies and returned in a month to pick them up. But instead I am gathering stories and getting involved. So in these last weeks in Kisayani I will soon head to Nairobi to meet with more influential decision makers and policy planners. I am attempting to put together the rest of the loose ends and eventually write a report. I have also made a promise to the community to share my preliminary thoughts on the research which will bring me back to Kisayani for a few days to share. I'm hoping for the right words to say and the ability to say 'I can't solve ___ problem' if needed.
A sentimental shot to close this depressing post |
Hey Geoff
ReplyDeleteI think you are doing great by not only acquiring knowledge, you are actually helping the communities that you visit. I want you to keep up with the good work and I'm still looking forward to when I will have you back here in Nigerian. And about the issues about corruption it is quit pathetic. Your stories are really funny and I am sure they should remind you about SMP in Nigeria. I am always keeping track of your bloggers.
Take care men.
Douglas