The past few days have been quite eventful.
Last Friday, while still in Nairobi at 3am in
the morning I awoke to screams and commotion. It turns out a woman 2 rooms down from me got robbed at gunpoint. She was OK,
but had a few things stolen from her. The next night I was heading out with a few
friends to go to an Ethiopian food restaurant and the guard dog of their house
randomly bit me. It wasn’t a bad bite but it broke the skin. Thinking it was
OK, I went on with my night. The next day I spoke to someone who mentioned how
if left untreated, rabies is 100% fatal. The chances of me getting rabies is
very slim, although there is no way to be fully aware that the dog is clean, so
I went to see a doctor the next day. The doctor also mentioned that I should
not risk it and get the vaccines, 5 different shots over a month. The only problem
there was that I was to head to Kisayani that day to start my fieldwork, and
Kisayani won’t have a fridge to keep the vaccine—the nearest clinic is about 10km down the road. I
ended up finding cooler as well as a small guesthouse in the nearby town which
had a fridge and could keep the vaccines cold for the next few days. I got my second shot today in town. For the 4th
and 5th shot I will need to head to Nairobi.
Despite these few setbacks and scares, I have
made it to Kisayani, where I will be spending the next few months conducting my
interviews, focus groups and holding various meetings asking questions
surrounding the water project, climate variances, and other sustainability
questions.
I have moved into a single room ‘apartment’
with 1 bed and 2 lawn-chairs and a shared bathroom with others in the complex. When
moving in I realized no cooking arrangements had been made. Because the food
that is cooked in Kisayani will at times likely get me sick due to its
preparation; those deciding my accommodations decided I should cook for myself. Also,
the shared water tap outside the rooms doesn’t seem to work (an interested
observation for my research), and the nearest water kiosk is about 500m away (sometimes works).
To drink this water I need to also boil it for 8 minutes. The tin room over
my head heats the room temperature to about 35 degrees midday.
Feeling a bit overwhelmed and frustrated at
first on how I’m supposed to survive out here and do my research, I realized
that the other rooms surrounding mine are shared by families, some of which
have 3 or 4 children. They do not have a gas stove like me, but a charcoal
stove that requires firewood (which fills their rooms with smoke and more
heat). They don’t have the privilege of having money for transport to the
larger town nearby to buy supplies or get vaccines. Moreover, my room, despite
being simple, is one of the nicest in the area and located right in town, many
others live in mud huts 6km from town and 2km from any water kiosk and without
electricity. And here I am writing this message on a laptop with a wireless
internet connection via G3 network.
This has indeed become quite a humbling
experience these first few days. I have felt almost unable to take care of
myself at times, when those around me are living like this each and everyday
while supporting families. My neighbours have been kind enough to also fetch
water for me, give me some supplies and have offered to teach me to cook. The children have also promised
to help me with my Swahili homework, if I practice English with them.
So these first few days I have spent getting to
know the area, the people, their living conditions, and also taken time
to figure out how to sustain myself. The people have been more than kind,
showing me to their homes, introducing me to their families, offering me
meals, and inviting me to their kid's birthday parties (I'll share about this later).
I may need your help with recipes. Here are
the readily available ingredients in the nearby market:
- · eggs,
- · tomato,
- · onion,
- · potatoes,
- · maize meal,
- · kale,
- · rice,
- · oil,
- · bread,
- · banana,
- · papaya
- · and limes.
I also have the ability to buy chickens—a whole
chicken. So any experience slaughtering and cleaning a chicken, please share.
Any recipe suggestions with the above ingredients are also welcomed and
appreciated!